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| Anshu Jamsenpa jagdishaforwomen.com |
Above image: Anshu is the first woman mountaineer to climb Mount Everest twice in the same season in just five days, a record for the fastest double ascent of the highest peak by a woman.Apart by the age of 43,she climbed Mount Everest five times.....
On Sunday, May 21, 2017, an Indian woman mountaineer made history by reaching the summit of Mount Everest for the second time in less than a week. This immense physical and psychological feat—a double ascent within a mere 5 days—set a new global women's record for the fastest double ascent of the world's highest peak in a single climbing season.
The Road to the Double Summit
Mrs. Anshu Jamsenpa, a 37-year-old mother of two, reached the 8,848-meter summit for her first seasonal climb on May 16, 2017. After descending, she took only a brief break at Base Camp for essential relaxation and rest. Instead of opting for a lengthy recovery period, she was back on her feet almost immediately, launching a secondary assault on the mountain with fierce determination and vigor.
According to Dawa Lama of Dream Himalaya Adventures, Jamsenpa officially secured the world record when she stood on the peak for the second time at 8:00 AM (0215 GMT) on May 21, 2017. Prior to leaving for the expedition, she had also traveled to receive a personal blessing from the Tibetan spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama.
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| Anshu with Dalai Lama indiatimes.com |
Before Jamsenpa' s historic 2017 climb, the Guinness World Record for a female double ascent in a single season was held by Nepali climber Chhurim Sherpa, who scaled the peak twice in 2012. Jamsenpa drastically cut down the time interval between summits, solidifying her status as one of the world's elite endurance athletes.
Resilience Through Tragic Setbacks
Jamsenpa is an incredibly seasoned climber who has stood on top of Everest a total of five times. However, her journey to the 2017 world record was paved with immense heartbreak and patience due to consecutive seasonal disasters in the Himalayas:
The 2014 Season: Jamsenpa originally intended to attempt her double assault this year. Her plans were halted when a massive avalanche killed 16 Nepali guides in the Khumbu Icefall, causing officials to cancel the rest of the climbing season out of respect and safety.
The 2015 Season: Her subsequent attempt ended abruptly following a massive, earthquake-triggered avalanche. The 7.8-magnitude Nepal earthquake caused widespread devastation across the country and claimed the lives of 18 people at Everest Base Camp, shutting down the mountain once again.
Roots and Personal Life
Born Deepa Kalita, she is natively from Bomdila, the headquarters of the West Kameng district in Arunachal Pradesh, Northeast India. Her husband, Tsering Wange, serves as the president of the All Arunachal Pradesh Mountaineering and Adventure Sports Association.Upon hearing the news of her success, Wange stated to the media:"God has answered the prayers of her admirers in Arunachal Pradesh and elsewhere in India and beyond.
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| Pinterest.com |
"Expanding the Context: The Realities of Modern Everest Climbing
The 2017 climbing season highlighted both the triumphs and the growing dangers associated with commercial mountaineering on the world’s highest peak.
High Traffic and Overcrowding
Every year, hundreds of climbers try to reach the top of the world during a incredibly narrow weather window in May before the summer monsoon brings heavy snow and storms in June. This short window frequently results in dangerous "traffic jams" in the Death Zone (altitudes above 8,000 meters). Veteran mountaineers have expressed deep concern over the high volume of summit permits issued by the government of Nepal, noting that bottlenecks increase frostbite risks and deplete vital oxygen supplies. Furthermore, increased traffic leaves behind piles of garbage, threatening the pristine ecology of the mountains.
A Season of Extreme Variables
During the 2017 season, more than 120 climbers made successful summits, though early attempts were heavily delayed by unusually harsh conditions, high winds, and heavy snowfall. Despite the obstacles, several milestones were reached. Nepali climber Lhakpa Sherpa broke her own world record during this period, securing her 8th successful Everest summit—the most for any woman in history.
Tragically, the season also saw losses. While the total casualty rate was lower than in previous disaster years, the climbing community mourned the loss of Ueli Steck. Known as the "Swiss Machine," Steck was an internationally acclaimed ace climber who perished during a preparatory acclimatization climb on Nuptse before he could attempt his primary Everest route.
Additional Facts & Legacy
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| Anshu Receiving award from Indian President ndtv.com |
Above image: First Indian woman to summit Mt.Everest twice in a season in 2017
National Recognition: Following her historic feat, Anshu Jamsenpa was awarded India's highest adventure sports honor, the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award, which she accepted from the President of India. In 2021, she was also awarded the Padma Shri, India's fourth-highest civilian award, for her monumental contributions to sports and mountaineering.
True Altitude Nuance: While the text references the historical height of 8,848 meters, joint measurements conducted by Nepal and China officially adjusted Mount Everest's height to 8,848.86 meters (29,031.7 feet) to account for snow cap depth and seismic shifts.
The Geography of West Kameng: Jamsenpa’s home district of West Kameng sits nestled within the Eastern Himalayas. The high-altitude terrain, rugged landscapes, and intense weather of Northeast India provided the ideal training ground for her legendary lung capacity and physical endurance.
https://www.ndtv.com/india-news/international-womens-day-2020-inspiring-story-of-first-indian-woman-to-scale-everest-twice-in-5-days-2
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/india/indian-woman-tops-everest-twice-in-week-breaks-record/articleshow/58773763.cms
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/sports/more-sports/others/anshu-jamsenpa-mountaineer-and-mother-scales-new-peak/articlesho
https://scroll.in/field/838280/anshu-jamsenpa-creates-history-scales-everest-twice-within-five-days
K. N. Jayaraman (Author: navrangindia.blogspot.com)
