Dak or Travel Bungalows of colonial India: Will they be protected for posterity?

A Dak Bungalow in Himachal Pradesh. team-bhp.com

Above  images; Hidden within the Dak bungalows are countless tales of colonial time-sighting of ghosts to paranormal activities  mountains  with misty mountains and tall pine  trees forming a perfect setting for such stories. ghost stories These bungalows have surprisingly  withstood nature, time and history. In the mid-1840s theearly British colonists British set up dak bungalow  primarily to relay the post or ‘dak’ in stages across the country.  They also served as a temporary boarding and lodging for the officers on tour.......

 Dak Bungalow Himachal Pradesh  team-bhp.com

Dag Bungalow near Gaya, UP. tribuneindia.com

"The dak bungalow was a rest house for travelers, particularly British officials, established along postal (dak) routes in British India, now modern India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. These government-owned buildings provided accommodation and were crucial for the administration and travel of the British Raj. The term also refers to Chicken Dak Bungalow, an Anglo-Indian one-pot dish featuring chicken, potatoes, and eggs, cooked in the colonial-era kitchens of these bungalows."

The government officials  during the British colonial rule had built Dak Bungalows or Dak Houses (commonly also known as Travel Houses) in the plains and in the hilly places across the Indian subcontinent, so that the officials, on  assignment moving from one place to another, could stay there comfortably. It was a sort of temporary respite for them for their long journey and work under the tough weather conditions. Besides such resting places in remote areas gave them protection against wild beast and dreaded mosquito problems. Dak Bungalows  close to the access road  were built for temporary stay and rest for the workers on duty. First built in the early 1840s, they served as staging posts for the dak, the imperial mail service

Gov-Gen of India between 1836 and 1842.en.wikipedia.org
  

Above image: George Eden, 1st Earl of Auckland, GCB (25 August 1784 -1 January 1849). The first high-ranking English administrator introduced Dak or Travel Bungalows  in India during the East India company rule that lasted till 1857-58).  He was thrice First Lord of the Admiralty and who  also served as Governor-General of India between 1836 and 1842............

 Dak Bungalows took shape following a decree by Lord Auckland,  an English Whig politician and colonial administrator. Travel Bungalows were built at an interval of  at least 12-15 miles  from each other  and preferably  at locations  near the long established tradition of caravan  routes (serais) and dharamshalas (free boarding or lodging built by Indian rulers. That is the limit of long distance people could cover a day.  The caravan  routes   with  many  chaultries (or Chatram in Tamil ) were specifically consructed   for the long distance pilgrims.

 In the state of Tamil Nadu such old chatrams built by past rules like the Nayaks, Marathas in Thanjavur, Pudukottai, Tiruch, Madurai districts  are severely damaged due to official negligence. Commonly called Travel Bungalows in Tamil Nadu and elsewhere in the S. India, there are many in the Nilgiri hills and other places.  It is mentioned in some articles on Dak bungalows in the north that there are 250 to 350 of them in the Himachal Pradesh alone, each 12 to 15 km apart. The bungalows  under the PWD are known as PWD Rest Houses and are usually located inside, or close to villages and towns. The ones under the  the Forest Department  called Forest Rest Houses (FRHs) lie in an  isolated, wooded areas.   

Invariably Dak Bungalows set in a bit higher locations, exhibit a simple Indo British design with minimum facilities, tiled roof, long  wide verandah from where one could view the  front compound wall  dotted with trees (mostly fruit-bearing) and the surrounding places. Provided with kitchen, a couple of modest  bed rooms, Indian cooks would prepare them their favorite food  according to their taste and fancy -  courses of chicken, mutton and fish were available to the guests.. Across India certain non-vegetarian  preparations that are quite popular  today  and  are on the  menu of famous eateries  owe their origin to such Dak Houses of the colonial period.

 The talented cooks   were busy preparing nice food for the English sahibs and sahiba. The most familiar one being fiery Railway mutton curry of Dak mutton Bungalow. The Dak Bungalow Curry was another famous dish during Colonial times. It was prepared with either meat or chicken and served with rice and vegetables or bread to the British Officers when they stayed at the  Dak Bungalows. The taste was based on ingredients, location and the recipe being followed by the respective cooks. Functioning under  Company Rule  and later under the Raj, they offered free accommodation for government officials who had to bring their own bedding for night stay and servants to take care of  their personal cooking needs, etc. khansamah could provide dining for those without their own cook. 

When the railroad arrived  in India in the  early 20th century across India, high ranking British officials would arrive in a special bogie with his retinue  and  get off at the nearest station and from  where they would go to the Dak House  for  a night's stay or two along with his servants including cooks and servants. In the earlier days, their only  means of long distance travel were either horse- drawn carriages or palanquins.  In the case of  junior official, they had to  travel in the first class bogey and engage a cart (bullock cart, etc) at the station where they got off  to reach the Dak Bungalow. The Dak  house cooks  would make arrangement for preparing and serving food to them, of course free of cost,  Dak Houses did not have any running water  and attached toilet facility and  the guests had to walk several  yards from the main building to reach the toilet on the premises. As for water for cooking, etc  the guests had to draw it from  the well on the premises. During the rainy seasons, sometimes, the officials had to stay there for more than a week. 

 About public, travelers from the business community, etc.,  they could use the dak bungalow by getting prior permission from the government official. They had to pay a nominal fee plus deposit to be reimbursed  upon vacating the premises,  if damages  were  not  made in the rooms provided. to them. However, they had to pay separate fee  for using firewood during winter or in a chilly place.  Dak Houses, also called Govt. Rest Houses were quite useful  a century ago  helping thetravelling people temporarily.   

Officials at the dak bungalows included the dakwala (postman), the durwan (caretaker), and sometimes a khansamah (attendant).. Normally the chowkidar or care taker would go to the nearby village market and buy provisions for a week or so not paying cash, but on barter system that was common in those days.  In the past,  these places  were temporarily used to hear legal cases by visiting government officials to the local area. Circuit Houses served the same purpose at district headquarters - both as resting place and hearing  legal cases. 

During  the early English company rule when the British were  busy grabbing the land by way of war or peace treaty with a twist,  Dak bungalows or Travelling houses  were  to their advantage and proper use.  They served as the EIC's  outpost  throughout India in the 19th century, besides serving as  staging points for mail runners of the Imperial Mail Service. 

Lt Col JK Stanford, ICS a distinguished officer who served in India and Burma from 1919 until 1936 between two stints in the British army reported a funny incident in the dak house. A  Sessions Judge who was hearing cases  on  the ground floor  was  quite annoyed by his  Burmese wife, who was hosting a gambling party for her friends on the first floor. His attempt to stop the wild party ending his being clobbered by his wife right before others. Quite disturbed, he left the government services to save his honor and self-respect.  

When the 1857 great rebellion by the Indian soldiers  were on  for more than a year against the corrupt and mean East India company officials in the northern states, along  with them the natives were on rampage. During the tumultuous period  such  net work of Dak houses  became hideout for the frightened  and  escaping British civilians  and their families. Soon after the suppression of the rebellion, even a thatch was prohibited for use in official buildings. Some tragedies did occur at such Dak Houses

 The surviving dak bungalows ate in poor condition in some places. They must be restored back to their old glory they once witnessed  all kinds of phases in a man's life. They were also silent witness to much of early Indian history, memsaibs and sahibas, their servants, etc, their  romances,  quarrels, bouts of violence leading to mayhem  murders, suicides and other tragedies. These travel bungalows are frequently clubbed with ghost stories by the locals and orchestrated by the scoop-hungry media. Such scars need to be erased by the government and convert them into tourist spots. 

As necessity did nor arise in the later period  such Dak Houses lost its importance and fell  into disrepair. Later. they  were  replaced by circuit houses, and to day, not many of them are maintained by the government.   Many of them are in ruins or razed to the ground  and the surviving ones  are being used by the govt. for mainly resting purposes; some  are  put to use as   lodges at the Sipahijola and Radhanagari wildlife sanctuaries.

Dak bungalow near Bhubaneswar Odisha. newindianexpress.com

Dak Bungalow Chhaka close to Bhubaneswar , capital city of Odisha  set in the old town  area called   Ekamra Khetra,  once served as a shelter for the travelling British masters from  Cuttack  to Puri, a  popular  temple temple town on the coastal area.  Unlike many Dak Bungalows that are built in the hill places, this one  is near a town in an isolated. area. Such isolated places have  now become semi urban areas or on the fringes of the cities. This  particular Dak House had no running water connection and electricity. The officers or any higher-ups had to depend on hand fans and a water well near by; the toilet  was within the confines of Dak house. This dak house was used both by higher and junior British officials.  Based on the old post.
https://www.newindianexpress.com/states/odisha/2018/sep/21/once-upon-a-timethere-was-a-dak-bungalow-1875204.html

https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/comment/dak-bungalows-and-ghosts-who-stay-there-117934

https://www.livehistoryindia.com/snapshort-histories/2018/12/12/dak-banglas-their-dark-tales

https://discoveringindia.net/dak-bungalows

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/171478-dak-bungalow-trail-himachal-travelogue.html

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/life-style/travel/dak-bungalow-trail/articleshow/51645992.cms