Fabled Indian Jewelry: Fabulous Al Thani Collection - 02

The San Francisco Exhibition (2018-2019): "East Meets West"

While there was not a major Al Thani exhibition in San Francisco in 2014, the collection arrived at the Legion of Honor (Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco) in late 2018 for a major exhibition titled "East Meets West: Jewels of the Maharajas from the Al Thani Collection."

Focus: This exhibition explored the cross-cultural exchange between the Indian subcontinent and European jewelry houses. It detailed how Indian royalty adopted Art Deco styles from Paris, while Western designers were simultaneously inspired by Indian gem-cutting and vibrant color palettes.

Architectural Influence: The Legion of Honor display was praised for its immersive design, which mirrored the opulence of Indian palaces and administrative centers.

Rare Artifacts:

The Nawanagar Ruby Necklace, created by Cartier in 1937 for the Maharaja of Nawanagar.

The Tiger Eye Diamond, a 61.50-carat cognac-colored diamond found in an aigrette (turban ornament) designed by Cartier in 1934.

A ceremonial sword from the kingdom of Hyderabad, encrusted with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds.

Historical and Religious Significance

These exhibitions were significant because they contextualized jewelry not merely as decorative finery, but as symbols of statehood, power, and religious devotion.

Many of the pieces featured "Navaratna" (nine gems) arrangements, which hold profound astrological significance in Indian culture. The preservation of these artifacts through the Al Thani Collection allows for the study of the craftsmanship of the Sunar (goldsmith) and the Jahari (jeweler), whose techniques have defined Indian heritage for centuries.

Sarpech The Nizam jewelry India natural diamonds.com

The Nizams of Hyderabad, India  had a huge treasury of gems and jewels that could be awe-inspiring . Among them was a prized Sarpech, considered the ultimate symbol of royalty. The Nizams' Sarpech features a Polki diamond set using Kundan goldwork with Meenakari on the reverse side and tumbled spinel drops..........

artandantiquesmag.com

Above image: Rosewater sprinkler, North India, 1675–1725, gold, rubies, emeralds, and pearls.Al Thani Collection in San Francisco .........

Pendant, India, artandantiquesmag.com

Above image:Pendant, India, circa 1575–1625, pearl, gold, diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, glass, enamel, and lac. Al Thani Collection in San Francisco ......

 Diamond Sarpech India natural diamonds.com

Above image: Cognac Diamond Sarpech:The Al-Thani Collection. The 61.50 cognac diamond was originally acquired by Maharaja Ranjitsinhji. In 1937, his successor, Maharaja Digvijaysinhji commissioned Cartier to create a jewel that would express modern grandeur. Cartier employed baguette-cut and brilliant-cut natural diamonds to deliver a jewel that perfectly exemplified the contemporary aesthetic of the Art Deco style, popular during the early 20th century.


Arcot diamond I
artandantiquesmag.com

Arcot diamond II
artandantiquesmag.com

Above image: Arcot II diamond, India, circa 1760, modified 1959 and 2011, brilliant-cut, pear-shaped, grade D, internally flawless type IIa, 17.21 caratAl Thani Collection in San Francisco ....... 

artandantiquesmag.com

Above image: Nawanagar ruby necklace, Cartier, London, 1937, platinum, rubies, and diamonds.Al Thani Collection in San Francisco ...... 

Turban ornaments Image: Richa Goyal Sikri  
natural diamonds.com

Turban ornament, naturaldiamonds.com

Golconda diamonds,India naturaldiamonds.com
image: 
Richa Goyal Sikri

Above image: Mined from the Kollur mines(now defunct, in Andhra state) of the then Golconda region in India, the Mirror of Paradise and the Pink Golconda are two of the most dazzling natural diamonds in the world. Al Thani Collection.............

https://www.naturaldiamonds.com/in/epic-diamonds-in/the-al-thani-collection-of-royal-gems-and-jewels

https://www.artandantiquesmag.com/al-thani

K. N. Jayaraman (Author: navrangindia.blogspot.com